Balma 1-3 ****
It doesn’t get more cushy than this. Even those who despise hiking will love the approach to Balma 1: maybe 5-20 seconds depending on where you park! The wall has plenty of nice crack climbs, dihedrals, corners, and slabs. Gear placement (Camalots and Nuts) practice as well as refining your hand jamming technique is ideal here. The area’s 4 star hard route is undoubtedly “Profondo Rosso” (8a+), and though it is bolted, it can also be lead on gear only as well. Unfortunately, not every hold you will find is given by nature! A Hilti definitely helped manufacture a few, for example, on “Diablo”. The sectors Balma 2 and 3 are very nice and even during light rainfall, you can climb in sector 2. Both sectors are characterized by technical face climbing.
Area News
29.3.2016
New routes / rebolted routes Balma 1:
"Mirabel and Gaiabel" (left entry to "Piodin-Piodella") was rebolted
"Aladino" (7b, left of "Fulvio fly", drilled holds!) was rebolted
"Peter Pan" (7c), new route on the left of "Re Azul"
"Nemico Pubblico" (8a, Trad C3+C4 to n. 6) by Giacomo Neri, FA Fabrizio Fratagnoli
"Variante Asciutta" (6a), entry variant to "La secchiona" (Dihedral instead of crack).
"La bionda avvocata" can also be climbed without the drilled hold on the left, suggested rating 7c+.