Wildhuser Schafberg ****

You can expect spectacular panoramic views and all kinds of climbing on the Schafberg Spur (ridge), which qualifies as the area Plaisir classic. Although the rock is not great everywhere, the route is popular. For something a little “sportier”, check out the fantastic lines on the Schafberg Face. Even the approach itself demands focus. Take care to avoid a misstep on the tiny ledge (bolts allow a belay). Arrived at the start, the massive sweeping slab beckons to be climbed. Due to the excellent rebolting in recent years, it has seen a serious uptick in popularity. Still, it is not a route to be underestimated. The at times run out protection can feel daunting. The hard classic is undoubtedly “Kein Wasser, kein Mond” put up in 1985. Even today, it stands out as one of Switzerland’s premiere alpine rock test pieces. With its absolute demand for precise technique, it has blown off more than a few very strrong teams. Its southern exposure allows climbing early and late in the year, summer is usually brutally hot.

9.6.2021
Fynn Renner and Nik Rheinhammer have rebolted the route "Che Guevara" (7a+) on the Schafbergwand. This beautiful line to the right of the Frospfeiler has probably been considered by many, but in view of the very outdated bolts from 1989, but then left it alone. Now the bolts have been replaced 1:1 by stainless material (a new topo is unnecessary, see SAC guide Alpstein). Thanks Fynn & Nik!