Gletschhorn *****
The South Ridge is one of the most beautiful ridge climbs at the grade. The approach up steep snow fields in late summer often requires crampons and an ice axe. The new route “Anfangergluck” (6 pitches grade 3, 1 move 4a and 2 C0 moves) offers an approach option that leads to the start of the South Ridge. If you link these routes, you get a long day on “Sudgrat Integrale”. Only recommended for efficient teams. Descent is best via the rappel route “Uto Express” (2 x 50m ropes needed). For the Integrale, you can leave your crampons and ice axe at home. Just as nice and unabashedly grippy, the SE Rib is newly rebolted. It is a delightful alpine rock climb not to be missed. For those still hungry for more, there is first class climbing on the Sporn with excellent alpine granite, reminiscent of Chamonix - beaucoup de plaisir!
Risk Reports
14.5.2023
Sporn
As a result of massive glacier retreat, the actual route entrances are much higher! The entrance of "Enfer doux" can still be reached. That of "Little Chamonix" however not! Thus, this route is currently not climbable! A new entry is planned in the fall of 2023.